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Dear Readers, The cathedral of Maguelone lies roughly 5 miles south-west of Montpellier on a strip of land, once an island, between lagoons and the sea. Far from the normal siting of a cathedral at the heart of bustling city centre, Maguelone stands alone with only a wood, vineyards and various minor dwellings. How did it come about? We take a look in this newsletter. Should you wish to be removed from this mailing list, please use the link provided at the bottom of the page. Otherwise, kindly read on. Theme of the fortnight: The cathedral of Maguelone It is the most impressive example of a fortified medieval cathedral that ever stood along the Languedoc coastline. Its rich and turbulent past and unorthodox setting between sea and lagoon make it a compelling visit. The approach to the cathedral of Maguelone brings us to a wood within which rise its tall austere walls devoid of the type of flamboyance we are accustomed to in Gothic cathedrals – an indication of its need for defenses. The facade featured two towers, one now completely gone, the other having lost its top, but for which the crumbling has ceased. The cathedral of Maguelone has over a thousand years been the seat of a bishop and a place of temporary refuge to the popes. It is undergoing a long and painstaking restoration, but can be visited nevertheless every day of the year.   Historical background The cathedral lies on a strip of land that up until fairly recently, – a matter of only a few centuries - would have been an island. The deposition of sediment, in part carried down from the Rhone delta has joined Maguelone to the mainland. Maritime trade, salt cultivation and fishing would have developed there from the 7th century BC. The Romans occupied Maguelone from the 2nd century BC but the installation was for a long time modest, in comparison to the 15 hectare domain it was to become by the 5th century AD. On the fall of the Roman empire, Christianity began to spread across the region. A first Bishopric was formed on the island in 533 at which time a primitive cathedral would have been in use. Archeological digs in 1967 unearthed numerous traces of human existance from this period - sarcophagi, coins etc, as well as the foundations of a 7th century church. The 8th century bishops lead a difficult cohabitation with the Wisigoth kings, but when the latter weakened, the period saw a rapid expansion of the Arab world. ‘Septimanie’, (the name used for Languedoc Roussillon at the time) fell under Muslim control in 719 and Maguelone became a significant Sarrasin trading port. Practise of the Christian religion was tolerated but Arabs were ousted from southern France by 732. It is during the latter period of the 8th century that the early church was destroyed. Traces of occupation of the island under the Carolingian empire are very rare - the clergy and authorities are known to have set up home in the neighbouring towns and for 300 years, Maguelone remained in a state of ruin. Activity, whilst modest, resumed in the 10th / 11th century. It was bishop Arnaud in the 11th century who undertook the task of rebuilding of a place of worship. Arnaud was buried in the cathedral in the chapel St. Augustin, the only remaining part of the early construction we see today. Evidently a man of great ambition, he built a 1km bridge across the lagoon joining the island to the mainland and, to prevent pillaging by pirates, two sets of ramparts. The cathedral thus became an impressive fortress, second only to Rome. In 1096, Pope Urbain II stayed at Maguelone - he proclaimed it the second church after that in Rome. Maguelone was to subsequently serve other popes seeking exile from strife in Rome. Prestige and wealth ensured the construction of a larger cathedral during the 12th century, work conducted by a succession of four bishops who also built a two storey cloister and dwellings for the bishop and guests. The same bishops were instrumental in the early development of the university in Montpellier. Around 1500, events took a new turn. Nearby, Montpellier till then a small bourg, was growing rapidly and offered a more animated environment and gentler climate than the Maguelone. Thus the island was abandoned, only to be adopted in 1562 by Protestants. This angered the King and triggered the dismantlement of the cathedral. Some of the stone retrieved was put to good use in the construction of a canal linking the nearby town of Sete to the Rhone river. Confiscated and sold as a national asset during the Revolution, the domain changed ownership several times but became a national monument in 1840. In a pitiful state it was bought in 1852 by the Fabrège family who undertook widespread research and restoration. We can thank the Fabreges for the initial stages of restoration of the cathedral, and the replanting of the island. It was returned to the catholic church in 1949.   Architecture The cathedral we see today was largely built eight centuries ago. It is thus a fine example of Romanesque architecture only with proportions amplified for its generous fortifications. Walls are consistently over two metres thick, towers are equally impressive and openings for windows and doors few and narrow. Biblical scenes illustrate the facade of the cathedral and impressive sarcophagi feature inside. The glass in windows is a recent addition – the glass maker adopting an undulating glass in a blue tint, no doubt to reflect the proximity of the sea. Maguelone today and "Les Compagnons de Maguelone" Maguelone has maintained its vocation as a place of welcome to the less fortunate. Since 1969 the charity organisation "Les Compagnons de Maguelone" works on the site. They help disabled people to enter professional and social circles through agricultural work on the domain and fishing in the lagoon. In addition they organise cultural events, continue restoration work on the cathedral and park and run archeological digs. A sacred music festival takes place on site in June every year. Numerous recordings have been made in the cathedral given its excellent acoustic characteristics. Practical Information During low season, the cathedral and site can be reached directly by car along the strip of land running from Palavas-les-Flots (approximately 3.5km and ending in a cul de sac). During high season, car access is very limited, however shuttles run freely from car parks beside Villeneuve-les-Maguelone and Palavas. For more information call 04.67.69.75.87.   +33 467 297 068 +33 626 581 415 Contact: http://www.jamespropertiesfrance.com/message.php For all other information: http://www.jamespropertiesfrance.com About James Properties France: Based in Montpellier in the south of France, bringing to you a carefully picked selection of properties within a 70 mile radius - with the occasional more distant exception - that are chosen for their combinations of attributes, most notably: - Setting of outstanding natural beauty - Distinct character or unusual features - Quality of renovation or authenticity - Value for money James Properties France (JPF) serves primarily an English speaking, though often highly Francophile clientele looking to move or own a second home in the south of France around such places as Uzes, Nîmes, Montpellier, Anduze, St. Hippolyte du Fort, the Southern Cevennes, Gignac and Clermont l'Herault and the Hauts Cantons. 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